Vrindavan

Vrindavan is the forest town where Krishna spent his childhood: where he herded cows, stole butter, played his flute and danced the raas with Radha and the gopis. It lies on the Yamuna in Uttar Pradesh, 12 km from Mathura and about 160 km from Delhi, and it is said to have more than five thousand temples. Here the everyday greeting is not “namaste” but “Radhe Radhe”.

Why Vrindavan is a Place of Power

For Vaishnavas, Vrindavan is not just where Krishna lived; it is where he still plays. The 16th-century saints Chaitanya Mahaprabhu and his followers, the Six Goswamis, rediscovered the sites of Krishna’s leelas here and built the first great temples. Saints like Swami Haridas, Hit Harivansh, Mirabai and, in the 20th century, Neem Karoli Baba lived and prayed here. Together with Mathura, Govardhan, Barsana and Nandgaon, Vrindavan forms Braj, the land of Krishna.

The temples you should not miss

Nidhivan, Seva Kunj and the ghats

Nidhivan is a grove of low, twisted tulsi trees where Swami Haridas found Banke Bihari. Devotees believe Radha and Krishna still dance the raas here at night, so the grove is closed after the evening aarti and no one stays inside. Seva Kunj, close by, is another grove of Krishna’s leelas. On the Yamuna, Keshi Ghat has a beautiful evening aarti; boats take you along the river at sunset.

Neem Karoli Baba’s ashram in Vrindavan

Many visitors to Vrindavan now come looking for Neem Karoli Baba. His Vrindavan ashram is on the Parikrama Marg, and it is here, not at Kainchi, that his samadhi stands: Maharaj-ji took the train from Kathgodam on 10 September 1973, fell ill on the way, and left his body in a Vrindavan hospital in the early hours of 11 September 1973. Read his life story in Hanuman Ansh and the real life of Neem Karoli Baba, and plan a visit to his other great ashram with our Kainchi Dham guide.

Walking the Vrindavan parikrama

The parikrama is a walk of about 10 km around the town, taking 3 to 4 hours. Devotees walk it barefoot, chanting, usually starting before dawn and passing Keshi Ghat, the Madan Mohan temple and Neem Karoli Baba’s ashram. On Ekadashi and in the holy month of Kartik, thousands walk together. Elders can do it by e-rickshaw.

Festivals in Vrindavan

• Holi: the whole week before Holi is celebrated, including the flower Holi at Banke Bihari; Barsana’s Lathmar Holi is 45 km away.
• Janmashtami: the midnight celebration of Krishna’s birth; Banke Bihari holds its only mangala aarti of the year that night.
• Radhashtami: Radha’s birthday, fifteen days after Janmashtami.
• Sharad Purnima: the night of the Maha Raas, when Krishna is dressed in white.
• Kartik month: lamps on the Yamuna every evening, ending with Govardhan Puja nearby.
• Jhulan Yatra (Sawan): Radha and Krishna are placed on decorated swings.

Getting there and getting around

By road: From Delhi, take the Yamuna Expressway to the Vrindavan exit: about 160 km, 3 hours. From Agra it is about 70 km. By train: Mathura Junction is on the main Delhi–Mumbai and Delhi–Chennai lines; Vrindavan is 12 km away by auto or taxi. By air: Agra is the nearest airport; Delhi and the new Noida (Jewar) airport are 2 to 3 hours away. Getting around: the old town’s lanes are too narrow for cars. Use e-rickshaws, and walk the last stretch to Banke Bihari.

Visiting Vrindavan with elderly parents

• Go on a weekday, and reach Banke Bihari at opening time; weekends and holidays bring crushing crowds in its narrow lane.
• Keep glasses, phones and bags secure. Vrindavan’s monkeys are famous for snatching spectacles and returning them only for food.
• Stay near the Parikrama Marg or Raman Reti, so temples are a short e-rickshaw ride away.
• Combine gently: one day for Vrindavan’s temples, one for Mathura and Govardhan. Braj rewards slowness.

Sources: temple histories published by the Banke Bihari, ISKCON and Radha Raman temples; the Uttar Pradesh tourism department; accounts of Neem Karoli Baba’s last days by his devotees. Darshan timings change with the season; confirm before you go.